BEIJING FLEA MARKET TOUR
ARTUS DE LAVILLION IS IN BEIJING REPORTS ON WHAT THE FLEA MARKET IS AND WHERE TO FIND THE BEST BUYS.
FLEA MARKET AFICIANADOS, Beijing history buffs and junk collectors alike were in jitters two years ago as rumors swept through the dusty stalls of Panjiayuan about official plans to clean up the capital's infamous, largely unregulated and delightfully chaotic "Dirt Market." Fast-forward to this year (2004), and Panjiayuan is still open and, by practically any measure, bigger and, better, with bargains galore. China's capital flea market remains chock-a-block with beads, bangles, jade, jewelry and, well, junk. If there is a trinket - however tacky - found anywhere in China, rest assured you will also find it here. From Mao caps to Ming pottery, Yinxing teapots to military binoculars, Panjiayuan has everything, including Tibetan trunks, bronze door knobs, antique locks, wooden puppets, even actual kitchen sinks. This marvelous mélange of miscellany is a major part of Panjiayuan's particular charm. Some markets specialize in flowers, silk or jade. Others more typically offer whatever is trendy, all the latest consumer gadgets and bobbles. Even with its enormous stock of traditional crafts, this outdoor emporium is a real market of the moment. And the masses. In many ways, Panjiayuan has always been more a festival than market. By Ron Gluckman - in Beijing
And the revamped market is much more tourist friendly, with craft stalls clustered together in sections according to offerings or regional origin, making comparison shopping all the easier. Tourists especially praise the overhead directional markers in Chinese and English. When Mao launched China's modern industrialization, Pan Village became known for its textile, food processing and printing factories.
No more. For a full decade, locals and visitors know Panjiayuan as the best place to browse for bargains. Or simply browse. Buying is surely part of the fun, but you can easily while away any weekend simply marveling at the detritus of the world's oldest civilization: from Ming horses to Qing pottery to Mao kitsch.
Panjiayuan Market (Pan Jia Yuan Jiu Huo Shichang) is open every Saturday and Sunday from 7 a.m. until 5 p.m. in the southeast corner of the Third Ring Road, just east of Longtan Park. Mornings are the best time to see the market in full bustle, but many believe prices drop towards the end of the day.By Ron Gluckman - in Beijing
